Professional perfumers write formulas in or parts per thousand (ppt) by weight, never by drops. Drops are highly inaccurate due to varying liquid viscosities and dropper sizes.
Once you have mastered individual accords, you can treat them as single ingredients to construct a complex perfume. A standard, well-balanced perfume matrix often follows a structural ratio like this:
You will learn why 400 parts of Hedione makes a rose float. You will learn why 1 part of Sulcatone changes an orange into a grapefruit. You will learn the secret of the perfume industry: There are no new ingredients, only new accords.
Mastering perfume accords is the "bridge" between smelling individual ingredients and creating a professional fragrance. An accord is a strategic blend of two or more materials that creates a new, independent scent greater than the sum of its parts. perfume accord formulas pdf
This creates a warm, sweet, and powdery accord often used in oriental perfumes. (Sweet, creamy vanilla) Labdanum Resinoid: (Balsamic, leathery, smoky) Benzoin Resinoid: (Sweet, balsamic, powdery) Patchouli Oil: (Earthiness to ground the sweetness) 3. Clean White Musk Accord (Musk)
What you are trying to build next (e.g., Gourmand, Marine, Leather)?
Chypre fragrances rely on the contrast between bright citrus top notes and a deep, mossy, woody base. Function / Note Parts (per 1000) Bright, sparkling / Top Oakmoss Absolute (10% in DPG) Inky, forest floor, bitter / Base Patchouli Essential Oil Rich, earthy, woody / Base Hedione Radiant, green jasminic lift / Heart Isoraldeine 70 (Gamma Methyl Ionone) Powdery wood, violet / Heart Rose Absolute Floral volume / Heart Total 1,000 The Fresh Fougère Accord (Fern/Barbershop) Professional perfumers write formulas in or parts per
This is a versatile, floral base that can be used in feminine and unisex perfumes. 30% Geraniol (Fresh rose): 25% Citronellol (Citrusy rose): 20% Rose Oxide 10% (Green/Sharp): 5% Ionone Alpha (Violet/Powdery): 10% Eugenol (Spicy clove): 10% 2. The Citrus Cologne Accord Formula
To find the perfect ratio between a top note (e.g., Bergamot) and a base note (e.g., Oakmoss): Prepare a series of 5 small vials. Blend them using shifting linear ratios: 90% Bergamot / 10% Oakmoss Vial 2: 70% Bergamot / 30% Oakmoss Vial 3: 50% Bergamot / 50% Oakmoss Vial 4: 30% Bergamot / 70% Oakmoss Vial 5: 10% Bergamot / 90% Oakmoss Dip scent strips into each vial. Smell them immediately, after 1 hour, and after 24 hours.
Often built using Coumarin (extracted from tonka beans) to provide hay, almond, and powdery nuances. A standard, well-balanced perfume matrix often follows a
The following formulas are structured out of 100 parts total. You can scale these to 10 grams, 100 grams, or convert them directly into percentages. The Classic Amber (Oriental) Accord
Identify the single vial where the two notes seamlessly merge without either overpowering the other. This establishes your core ratio. 5. Compounding Best Practices
: Frequently shares educational posts and formula breakdowns for classic accords like Rose or Sandalwood. , such as a How To Create A Perfume Accord - Karen Gilbert
Raw chemicals react when mixed. Let your accord sit in a dark glass bottle for at least 48 to 72 hours before testing it. The harsh chemical edges will soften.